Places of interests in Jaipur

Abhaneri: 90 km east of Jaipur Abhaneri, in the Dausa district of Rajasthan, used to be an important village in the ancient times. The sculpture and architecture suggest that it must have been a great centre of arts. But the flourishing town was ruined by none other than the early 11th century plunderer Mahmud Ghazni in one of his invasions (see History of Delhi for more on Ghazni.) Today Abhaneri is mainly famous for the Harshat Mata Temple belonging to the 9th century. Of course, only portions of this ancient shrine remain now, like the sanctuary walls, terrace and something of the columned mandapa (forechamber). The sanctum, shorn of its superstructure, is enclosed in an ambulatory and is pancharatha (with five offsets) in structure. The walls have carved nichés in which are images of other deities. These worn out images indicate that the temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, the Creator of the Hindu trinity of Creator-Preserver-Destroyer. The architectural details of the terrace basement is more or less complete, showing friezes of geometric ornament and miniature nichés with sculptures of seated deities and amorous couples. The columns and walls are adorned with scenes of dance, music, sport and love, although majorly damaged now. Some of the better panels have been shifted to the Archaeological Museum, Amber and the Central Museum, Jaipur. The sanctum now enshrines an image of the four-armed deity Harasiddhi, locally called Harshat Mata. Many images of Hindu deities have been found around the place which are being preserved by the Archaelogical Survey of India. A mela (fair) is held near the temple in the month of Chaitra (March-April) every year. Near the Harshat Mata Temple is the stepwell Chand Baoli, belonging to the 11th century AD. The desert kingdom of Rajasthan has many such tanks which served as community centres, and constructing them was considered an act of great generosity and benevolence. These baolis or stepwells were no ordinary structures; they were marvels of architecture. The Chand Baoli has beautifully carved panels inserted into the sides. The steps, in sets of 4 or 5, are in the shape of an inverted 'V'. The carved stone pillars, which are somewhat damaged now, were once strong enough for supporting pulleys to draw water. Several storeyed verandahs surround this beautiful stepwell.

Central Museum or the Albert Hall lies in the Ram Niwas Garden. It is a vast and verdant garden housing a zoo, a greenhouse, an aviary, a museum and a sports ground. It has been modelled on the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and is a fine example of Indo-Saracenic style of architecture. It has been converted into the Central Museum which proudly displays Rajasthan’s art and culture and outlines the Rajput morality . It now houses an exquisite collection of metalware, decorative wares, miniature portraits, sculptures, paintings, natural history specimen, an Egyptian mummy among various other objet d’ art. Rajasthani village life is also displayed through costumes, pottery, brassware and woodwork.

The sprawling Amber Fort is a typical example of what the lives of our gallant Rajputs were like – militant, adventurous, temperamental and also self-indulgent. It is among the best hilltop forts in India. Within the stern exteriors that seem to grow out of the rugged hills are mighty gates, temples, huge ornate halls, palaces, pavilions, gardens and even a ramp to take you to the hilltop palace! And guess who climbs the ramp? Elephants. Yes, beautifully- caparisoned elephants go up and down carrying visitors to and fro. Old Amber Palace and Around The Old Palace lies at the base of the Jaigarh Fort. This area was the original Amber before Man Singh I came along and went on a building spree. The early 13th century palace here is not very interesting as compared to the grand Amber Fort-palace, yet you could do with a visit. This Old Palace can be reached from the Amber Palace too – there's a stone path leading from the Chand Pol to these ruins at the base of the hill. The road is currently being restored. Here lie the remains of ancient Amber which include temples and crumbling palaces and patches of walls. The cobbled streets and broken down havelis (mansions) give it the aura of a medieval town. But these mute remnants of a bygone golden era seem to speak volumes. All around the place here are scattered bits and pieces of Amber's rich past. The old chhatris (cenotaphs), looking like domed pavilions, show some remains of paintings. Among the many temples near the Old Palace is the beautiful Jagatsiromani Temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. This shikhara (spired) temple was built by Man Singh in memory of his son Jagat Singh. It has some fine carvings and paintings and the black stone Krishna is said to have been worshipped by the saint-poetess Meera Bai of Chittor. It is also famous for its intricately carved marble gateway guarded by stone elephants. Across the road is the Jain Temple of Sanwalji. Nearby are the old Temple of Narsinghji with its marble jhoola (swing), the Temple of Ambikeshwara and the Lakshmi Narayanji Temple. The latter has a Shiva lingam installed by Raja Kakil, the first Kachhawaha to rule from Amber. And according to some, Amber even gets its name from this temple. An ancient Sun Temple lies as an outcrop.

Just opposite the Man Sagar Lake, Gaitor lies in a narrow valley with its marble and sandstone chhattris (cenotaphs) of the rulers of Jaipur. This was the site where the Kachhwaha royalty ended their stay on earth. It has been the royal cremation ground of the kings and princes of the ruling clan of Jaipur from Sawai Jai Singh II onwards. It has cenotaphs of all the Jaipur rulers except Sawai Ishwari Singh who was cremated outside the Jai Niwas garden. The marble memorials mark the places where the Kachhwaha kings were cremated and the smaller ones standing with them are those of the princes who died young. After the capital was shifted to Jaipur Sawai Jai Singh chose Gaitor as the cremation ground for the royal family. Then from 1733 onwards the final rites of every Kachhwaha king were conducted here. These chhatris are open domed pavilions set on a raised platform. Slender pillars hold up the roof and the platform has smaller chhatris at its corners. Each chhatri or cenotaph has a different design and is styled according to the majesty and power of the king during his lifetime. The most beautiful one is that of Jai Singh II himself with intricate carvings and a graceful shape in marble, built by his son Ishwari Singh. It is a white marble dome built on 20 carved pillars that rise from a square platform lavishly engraved with scenes from Hindu mythology. The Chhatri of Madho Singh I, second son of Jai Singh II, is a pillared two storeyed structure with a smaller pavilion on the roof. The Chhatri of Pratap Singh is also of marble alongwith a dome and square pillars to give company. The Chhatri of Madho Singh II is in white and pink stone. A lamp is lit everyday at the cenotaph of Sawai Man Singh since his death. Another familiar spot here is that of the miniature shrine of the two sons of Madho Singh II from his mistresses. The whole scene set between the gardens presents a picture perfect shot.

Galta 10km from Jaipuris a pretty little pilgrim spot located just beyond Sisodia Rani-ka Bagh on Agra Road. This is the sacred spot where one sage Galav is supposed to have lived and meditated. As such the place is visited mainly for its temples. Just before you enter Galta, you will come across the aesthetic Balaji ka Mandir. It is a triple-storied building of pink stone, looking more like a palatial haveli (mansion). The Temple of Galtaji, which lies in a picturesque gorge amid low hills, has a huge complex. This one is also built of pink stone, with a profusion of pavilions having rounded roofs. The walls and pillars have exquisite carvings and paintings. The whole complex is so beautiful that it is more of a visual treat than a place for worship. The temple, however, has a large daily attendance. There are also some springs and natural reservoirs (kunds) around the Galta Temple, where the devout take holy dips. They believe that by doing so, they can cleanse themselves of their worldly sins! Even in the cold of mid-January, devotees throng to these kunds for their ritual dip on Makar Sankranti, an important festival of the Hindus (see Religion of India for more on Makar Sankranti). The holiest one of these is the Galta Kund, believed never to become dry. All the seven tanks, including the Galta Kund, are fed by a spring emanating from the Gaumukh, a rock carved in the shape of a cow's head. The 18th century Surya Temple stands on top of the highest peak here. It was built by Rao Kriparam, a courtier of Sawai Jai Singh II. There are fine views from here of the surrounding plains and the city of Jaipur beyond. The temple had some beautiful frescoes, but sadly heavy rains in 1991 washed many away. The restored ones are hardly of any match to the originals. If you're bored with temples, take a walk among the old style havelis (mansions) nearby. Though rather dilapidated, they have delicately carved balconies and painted ceilings.

Hawa Mahal is located in the Tripolia Bazaar in the west of GPO. This most famous landmark of Jaipur is not actually a palace but a series of sandstone screens. This pink structure was constructed so that the ladies of the palace could watch the royal processions without being seen by any outsider. It has a fantasia of 953 ornated windows set in a rose-colored five storey facade. The palace has tier upon tier of curved arch surmounting fairy casements with "jali" - lattice work screens. From here the ladies of the court could look out at festive processions without jeopardizing their modest seclusion.

Whenever Man Singh I (late 16th century) or his successors warred and won gold, silver, jewels and other booty, they hoarded it in the Jaigarh Fort. And they had the loyal Minas to fiercely guard their haul. (In fact, legends tell us that the Minas were such strict guards that they let each new Kachhawaha king to enter only once and pick one single piece for himself from the dazzling pile!) Anyway, all this treasure paid first for building Amber, then Jaipur and for centuries of lavish living. Indian Government officials tried to retrieve whatever was left; they dug the place in 1976 but found nothing. In fact they even drained the three arched water tanks (in a courtyard on the way to the northern end of the fort) in the hope of finding the fortune there. Some say that everything was used up in building Jaipur while others claim that it is still there somewhere. The dictum of the ancient Hindu scriptures, the Puranas, 'a fort is the strength of a king', must have loomed large in the minds of the Rajputs while building the Jaigarh Fort. The ambitious Jai Singh II then expanded, remodelled and renamed it in 1726. And since this fort never fell in the hands of enemies, it stands almost intact to this day. Jaigarh or the 'Fort of Victory' is perched on Chilh ka Tola (Hill of Eagles), 400 feet above the Amber Fort. The walls of the fort are spread over three kilometers. Once you enter through the massive south facing Doongar Darwaza, you'll instantly get a tangible feel of Rajput romanticism. And if you're lucky, Thakur Pratap Singh, a handsome Rajput with a fine moustache will be around to tell you stories of Jaigarh's illustrious past. The other entrance to the fort is through the Awani Darwaza in the east. Jaigarh Fort is a remarkable feat of military architecture. After you enter, head straight for the gigantic cannon Jaivan perched on top of a tower. Weighing 50 tons with an 8m barrel and a trajectory of about 20km, it is said to be the world's largest cannon on wheels. Such was its might that it took four elephants to swivel it around on its axis. But surprisingly (and thankfully!) it was never used. Despite its awesome firepower, it has a delicate scrollwork of birds, foliage and a roaring elephant at its mouth. Jaivan was test-fired once by Jai Singh in 1720 when the cannon ball landed at Chaksu about 38km away! And the impact of it was so enormous that a lake formed at the spot and many houses collapsed in Jaipur. The cannoneer died immediately after the firing, before he could even jump into water. (It is mandatory for the cannoneer to jump into water to avoid the massive impact, and so there's always a water tank beside the cannon.) No wonder enemies didn't ever set their eyes on Jaigarh. There's even a notice here which proudly says, "because of the strong defence system, management and the foresightedness of the rulers, the enemy never dared to enter the fort." The Jaigarh cannon foundry, built by Bhagwan Das in the 16th century, is one of the few surviving medieval foundries in the world. It has a furnace, lathe, tools and a collection of cannons. It was Bhagwan's adopted son, Man Singh I, who brought the secret of gunpowder from Kabul in 1584 where the latter was the commander-in-chief of Akbar's army. Soon cannons began to be made in Jaigarh, much to the displeasure of the Mughals who kept the secret to themselves ever since they used it to fight the Lodis and Rajputs in 1526 (check History of Delhi for more). There's a point called Damdama (meaning 'continuous firing'), where there used to be a battery of ten cannons positioned to check any approaching army. This faces the Delhi Road. This led some to believe that Man Singh was secretly preparing for a showdown with his Mughal allies. The highest point in Jaigarh is the seven-storeyed Diya Burj, the turret of lamps from where you get a panoramic view of the city of Jaipur. Also interesting is the water supply and storage system of the fort, a real marvel of planning. Sagar Talav, with octagonal bastions and huge dams, is one of the fort's grand reservoirs. The scarcity of water has always exercised the ingenuity of the Rajasthanis, also accounting for the existence of the several baoris or baolis (stepwells) in the state. There are some temples within the fort. The 10th century Shri Ram Hari Har Temple houses images of three gods – Rama, Vishnu and Shiva. It has an interesting doorway. Nearby is the 12th century Kal Bhairava Temple. The museum of artefacts tells the story of the Jaigarh Fort and its vast well-protected treasury. There is an interesting collection of paintings, photographs and coins, and other things like a balance for measuring explosives and several containers including a 16th century coin container. Don't miss the royal kitchen and dining hall; after all food and hospitality were also very much a part of Rajput agenda. The palace complex, built by various kings over a period of two centuries, has the usual structure beginning with the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience). But it goes a step ahead of the Amber Fort in terms of defense; it has a Khilbat Niwas (Commanders' Meeting Hall) in place of the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). There's also the open pillared hall, Subhat Niwas. But these are insignificant structures as compare to the ones in Amber Fort. This part of the fort is full of secret back passages for royal escape in times of emergency. The luxury suites are very much there – the breezy Aram Mandir (Rest House) and the 16th century Vilas Mandir (Pleasure House). The former has a lovely garden attached to it. It was in the charming courtyard of the latter that the royal ladies had their little parties, janani majlis. The pavilions surrounding the courtyard, with a maze of passages, offer excellent views of Amber.

Built in 1718, Jantar Mantar is the largest and the best-preserved observatory of the five built by Sawai Jai Singh to study movements of stars. The others are located in Delhi, Ujjain, Varanasi and Mathura. Astronomical instruments, built with stone and marble those were the pride of medieval India and still providing fairly accurate information, are the highlight of the observatory.The most striking of these are the Ram Yantras used for gauging altitudes.

The place better known, as Kanak Ghati is a picturesque garden laid down in the Mughal style with lots of fountains and ponds. It has a complex of fine temples and gardens inside the colonnaded pavilion (1707) that has been restored recently by the Birlas. Kanak Vrindavan is an attractive spot both for tourists as well as locals who come for their share of outing on a picnic day.

40km from Jaipur In Madhogarh-Tunga,40km from Jaipur you have nothing except a fort for sightseeing. But it’s a nice place to stay anyway, because it's quiet and pleasant in here. Built by the Kachhawaha Rajputs (of Amber-Jaipur), the fort is an imposing monument nestling amidst mango orchards. It’s still in great shape, rising from the earth like a solid chunk of strength. The fort has now been converted into a heritage hotel. Madhogarh-Tunga was also the site of a battle between the Kachhawaha Rajputs and the Marathas, both parties being famed for their fighting prowess. Things got really bad during Sawai Prithvi Singh's time (ruled 1778-1803), because he and the Maratha General Mahadji Scindia were always at each other's throats. Once the latter advanced upto Dausa, which was alarmingly close to Jaipur. War was thus inevitable. The Maratha and Jaipur forces met at Tunga where a fierce battle was fought for three days in May 1787. But the Marathas, who were supposedly trained by a French, were no match for the Rajputs and were defeated.

Moti Doongri is a hilltop fort built like a Scottish castle and is today the residence of Rajmata (Queen Mother) Gayatri Devi. The place was previously a small fortress called Shankargarh (Shiva’s Foot) but was later altered by Sawai Man Singh II on the design of a Scottish castle. Later it was used as the venue for his innumerable parties attended by the top socialites of his times. The Ganesh Temple at the foot of the hill and the marvellous Birla Mandir are most notable for their works in marble.

In 1734, seven years after his new capital was built Jai Singh II began to build this small fort. Two and a half-centuries later it still stands tall on a steep rocky face with massive walls and bastions for company. The fort provides an excellent view of the Pink City spread out at its foot. Jai Singh II named it Sudarshangarh (sudarshan chakra: Lord Vishnu’s discus; garh: fort). There is a strange story behind the change of name of the fort. When work began on it, strange things happened here at night. Every morning the workers would find that the previous day’s entire construction was destroyed. Jai Singh then found out that the land had once belonged to a dead Rathore prince named Nahar Singh and his spirit did not like the sudden disturbances in his spiritual abode. To appease the soul a small fortress was built at Purana Ghat where the spirit could reside, and then the fort was renamed Nahargarh. Later a shrine was also added where the warrior could be worshipped. Nahargarh was used as the treasure of the Jaipur kingdom and even the highest state officials would only be allowed to approach the fort blindfolded. In the 1880s Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh transformed Nahargarh into a monsoon retreat. He ordered the Raj Imarat, responsible for royal construction projects, to design a pleasure palace within the fort known as the Madhavendra Bhawan. Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, the designer of Jaipur, built this palace with its beautiful interiors of frescoes and stucco designs that was used mainly by the harem women. Each of the Maharaja’s nine wives was given a two-storey apartment, which were set around three sides of a rectangular courtyard. The maharaja’s personal living wing was built on the fourth side. The architecture was basically Indian with certain European additions like rectangular windows and western styled toilets. The apartments were arranged in such an order that the king could visit any one queen’s room without the knowledge of the others. For his convenience, each queen had her name inscribed above her door. Thakur Fateh Singh, an engineer in the Raj Imarat helped in the design of the queen’s apartments. The fort dominates the skyline by day and forms a breathtaking sight when floodlit at night. However, much of the original fort now lies in ruins except the walls and the 19th century additions including the rooms furnished for the maharajas. The cannons ranged across the Hazuri Burj were supposed to protect the fort but as the city never faced an attack from either the Mughals or the armies of other Rajput kingdoms, they were usually fired to signal the time to the city below. The queens used to come for a stroll here and the royal treasure were kept in the palace until Man Singh II moved it in the 1940s to Moti Doongri. You have to walk past the quiet streets at the base of the hill and then trek 2km up a steep, rough winding path to reach the top of the fort. Once you reach the top you’ll have a wonderful view of the Man Sagar Lake, in the middle of which Jai Singh II built a palatial duck blind for his shooting parties.

42km northwest from Jaipur towards Bikaner Samode nestles quietly among the rugged hills of the Northern Aravallis.The beautiful Samode Palace, has been rebuilt and renovated and provides a fine example of the Rajput haveli architecture and is an ideal spot for outings.

The City Palace is an imposing blend of traditional Rajasthani and Mughal art and architecture. The City Palace complex houses several palatial structures. In the heart of the old city, the City Palace occupies a large area divided into a series of courtyards, gardens and buildings.The City Palace sprawls over one-seventh of the area of the walled city. It houses the Chandra Mahal, Shri Govind Dev Temple and the City Palace Museum. The first building in it, is Mubarak Mahal, built by Maharaja Madho Singh. It has a beautifully carved marble gate with heavy brass doors on either side of this gate. Beyond this gate, lies the 'Diwan-E-Khas' or the 'Hall Of Private Audience' with a marble paved gallery. Across a paved square lies the 'Diwan-E-Am' or the 'Hall Of Public Audience', with its intricate decorations and manuscripts in Persian and Sanskrit. There is also a clock tower and the newer Mubarak Mahal.

Outside the walled city of Jaipur, lies the garden Vidyadharji ka Bagh, designed along the lines of a Mughal garden. It has a lovely setting, spreading in the valley between two low hills. Earlier this little garden used to be the vineyard of the rajas.The evening brings with itself a special charm; well-concealed lights at the base of the surrounding hills outline them against the darkening sky. About half a kilometer from Vidyadharji-ka Bagh is the lovely Sisodia Rani-ka Bagh. The palace here was built by Sawai Jai Singh in 1722 for his queen from Udaipur (of the Sisodia clan). The pristine Sisodia Rani-ka Bagh is a multi-level garden and is lined with cascading fountains and water channels. The palace is equally beautiful with large bright murals adorning the walls. Scenes from the Radha-Krishna legend, which Jai Singh was particularly fond of, are prominent.